When should I do a pre-winter mower tune-up in Northern Colorado?

Right after your final fall cut — usually mid-to-late October for Johnstown, Loveland, Berthoud, and the rest of the Front Range — and at least 2 weeks before the mower goes into long-term storage.

Do I need to drain the gas before storing my mower for winter?

Either drain the tank and run the engine dry, or add fuel stabilizer and run the engine for a few minutes to circulate it. Old fuel is the most common cause of a no-start mower in spring.

Can Mow 4 U pick up my mower for winter storage?

Yes — call (970) 685-9512 and we can fold a winter storage handoff into one of our late-season visits.

Pre-Winter Mower Storage Tune-Up for Northern Colorado (Johnstown, Loveland, Berthoud)

1) Handle the fuel first

Old gas is the #1 cause of a mower that won't start in spring. Pick one of these paths before the mower sits for 4+ months:

Drain the tank and run the engine until it dies. Cleanest option if you have a syphon or drain bolt.
Add fuel stabilizer (e.g., Sta-Bil or Sea Foam) to a topped-off tank, then run the engine 3–5 minutes to circulate it through the carburetor.
Skip both, and you'll likely be replacing the carburetor or pulling the spark plug to clean varnish out in March.

2) Change the oil (or top it off)

Run the engine warm for a minute, shut it off, and drain the old oil into a pan.
Refill with the grade listed in your owner's manual (commonly 10W-30 for NoCo temps).
Used oil goes to any Northern Colorado auto-parts store — Loveland, Fort Collins, and Greeley all have free drop-off.

3) Pull the spark plug and inspect it

A healthy plug is tan/light gray. Black and sooty = too much oil or a carb problem. White and crusty = running lean.
Clean with a wire brush, gap to spec, or just replace it — plugs are cheap insurance.
Pour a tablespoon of fresh oil into the cylinder, then pull the starter cord a few times to coat the walls.

4) Clean or replace the air filter

Foam filters: wash with soapy water, dry, oil lightly.
Paper filters: replace (most cost under $10).
A clogged filter overworks the engine all season — replacement is one of the cheapest performance wins in lawn care.

5) Sharpen or swap the blade

Sharpen once a year minimum; twice if you hit sticks or sprinkler heads.
NoCo bluegrass and fescue lawns don't need a razor edge — a clean, slightly rounded edge cuts better and lasts longer.
If the blade is badly nicked or bent, replace it. Balance matters: an unbalanced blade shakes the deck apart.

6) Battery and electric mowers

Li-ion batteries: store at 40–60% charge in a climate-controlled space (garage is fine; unheated shed in January is not).
Lead-acid mower batteries: trickle-charge once during storage, or disconnect the negative terminal.
Corded mowers: just clean and store — nothing to charge.

7) Pick the right storage spot

Best: dry, covered garage or basement corner. OK: insulated shed with stable temps. Skip: unheated metal shed in Berthoud or Wellington where winter lows drop into single digits — old fuel and a cold-soaked engine is the spring no-start combo.

8) When to call a pro

You don't have time in the next two weeks before the first measurable snow.
Your mower is running rough now and you want it to be the first cut-ready in spring.
You'd rather hand the mower off to a crew that's already on the property for fall cleanup or sprinkler blowout.

Want it off your to-do list?

Call (970) 685-9512 or use our quick quote form. We can fold a winter storage handoff into one of our late-season visits — no separate trip charge.

Serving Northern Colorado: Berthoud, Johnstown, Loveland, Fort Collins, Windsor, and surrounding areas.